Better Grooming for dogs

Do remember that frequent bathing is unnecessary and to be avoided, for it removes the natural oil from their skin. It stimulates the skin; keeps it clean, shining and sweet smelling. There are a large variety of dog brushers, grooming gloves and combs from which we can choose. A double-sided brush with a handle with wire pins on one side and nylon tufts on the other is the ideal one. Daily brushing for a poodle is essential; otherwise its coat goes into tight mats, and once it has got into that condition, it entails much discomfort for the dog before the coat can be put back in order again. 

Temperature of water should be about 30 degree C ( 86 degree F) and never above body heat. Basin may be filled up to dog’s tummy, but better if you pour water over dog gently, starting at the tail and going forward. The minute you wet his head he’ll shake. Therefore, never start from the head. Any mild toilet soap is okay, but ‘soft’ soaps are more convenient. More important than the kind of soap is the thorough rinsing. Dry with a rough towel. Then another rough towel. If you are doing it on a commercial basis, use a blower-dryer in one corner of a kennel cage. Dry-shampooing is much simpler and often as effective as bathing. Use any inert powder. Rub it in and brush it out. 

Pay special attention to the feet. Comb them gently and make sure you remove all the mud and dirt stuck between the toes, for if not attended to, this can result in pain and discomfort. Wash the feet in warm and soapy water, but, if badly, tarred, soak them first in medicinal paraffin which will liquefy the tar and facilitate its removal, and then wash in soapy water and dry them well. Keep your dog’s feet nicely trimmed and neat. Except in a very few breeds-notably some toy breeds a dog’s feet should be tidy; so trim round occasionally with a pair of sharp scissors. 
Due care will save them getting ear canker, of the ears is a collection of dirt, wax etc., in the inner ear. It is frightfully painful and it would be indeed cruel to neglect this, for if not attended to, it will result in a foul-smelling discharge from the ears. A early sign of this is constant shaking of the head. Scratching round the base of the ears and trying to rub the ears on the floor. All trimming should be done by experts, and on no account should the coat be clipped or cut, as this ruins its texture, and promotes the growth of soft and woolly undercoat. 

Clean the inside of the ear-flaps with cottonwood dipped in water. Add a small amount of methylated or surgical spirit, and give particular attention to the ear orifices and dry these well with a soft cloth. It is quite a good idea to give a weekly dressing into the ear holes with a reputable brand of canker powder, which can be obtained at the chemist. Make a small paper funnel, place in the ear, and in this put a small amount of the powder and shake into the ear. Even better is a liquid dressing, using a small glass syringe or fountain-pen filler for the purpose. 

Attention to eyes is equally important and should be a part of the daily routine. There should be not mucus or discharge from the corners. If there is mucus, the eyes should be gently cleaned with cottonwood dipped in boric lotion. If the eyes are sore and inflamed, put a few drops with an eye-dropper. If they do not respond to this treatment, consult your veterinary surgeon. 

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